A coffee aficionado uncovers secrets to human-nature harmony at one of India’s leading coffee hubs
By Sudrisha Goswami
Set amidst the densely forested cover of the Western Ghats, Coorg sits drenched in exotic foliage and fauna of Karnataka. In pursuit of bonding with the wild, India’s leading coffee connoisseur and trainer, Suhas Dwarkanath maps out a road trip to the coffee country renowned for its world-class robustas and eco-conscious traditional farming practices that eludes a unique flavour profile in every sip. On long drives such as this one, steeped in the bounty of nature, the Hyundai TUCSON munches down on miles, breezing through hairpin curves and rocky terrain. Suhas is armed with Hyundai’s SmartSense ADAS features like the Smart Cruise Control that backs him up with convenience and safety on the road by maintaining a preselected distance from any vehicle as he inaugurates his inter-state journey from Wayanad to Coorg. His venture brews coffee explorations in the lush estates dotted by encounters with endemic lifeforms that narrates tales of unity.
The feature-packed Hyundai TUCSON comes armed with all that is needed for a memorable road trip. Photo by: Siddharth Kejriwal
The Mojo Plantation is surrounded by scenic valleys and tropical montane forests. Unadulterated coffee plantations thrive in the midst of thick manes of native trees while streams dribble through the damp lands that are replenished by high rainfall of 2,500-3,500 millimetres annually. Natural woodlands are cleared of undergrowth for growing coffee, as well as an array of spices and fruits such as cardamom, black pepper, vanilla, cinnamon and turmeric, leaving the natural vegetation undisturbed. Ardent believers of intercropping, flavours from surrounding crops seep into the incipient coffee beans as their roots intertwine, reflecting unmatched flavours, praises of which ring across the world. Many such small holdings dot the coffee country, a stark difference from the commercial Chikkamagaluru estates which are converted into farms.
At Rainforest Retreat in Coorg, coffee investigations and lessons on human-nature interdependence await Suhas Dwarakanath. Photo by: Siddhart Kejriwal
Aside from mammals, a myriad of reptiles, insects and migratory as well as resident bird species grace the verdant cover of the region, knitted with over 100 species of flora in one site alone. Malabar grey hornbill, Malabar barbet and White cheeked barbet are a few endemic avians thriving here. In fact, over 25 percent of India’s overall feathered population graces the region. Coorg’s coffee farms are exemplary of nature’s astounding self-maintenance.
Enroute Coorg, the panoramic roof of the all-new Hyundai TUCSON offers breath-taking views of the Shola forests. Photo by: Siddhart Kejriwal
Slithering into the rainforest for a night-trek could record chance encounters with the checkered keelback snake, among a diverse range of flourishing wildlife. Photo by: Siddhart Kejriwal
Despite the organic benefits of tree-shade farming for coffee drinkers and the environment alike, sun-grown coffee is increasingly taking over the Coorgi coffee scene due to commercial benefits and ease of cultivation. Sun-grown coffee plantations undertake slashing down trees so as to make way for sunlight to reach the coffee baubles. This also creates more space for coffee plants, which is synonymous with higher yields. “If a commercial plantation is able to produce thirty bags of coffee, hypothetically, conservationist farms will only be able to produce twenty, resulting in a hike in prices. Roasters paying larger sums for the coffee aids in helping estates continue conservation and not destroy the local flora and fauna,” says Suhas.
In partnership with nature, Mojo Plantation combines time-tested traditional methods with modern scientific innovations to maintain healthy environmental conditions. The holding sustains a forest-like canopy at the top while a bushy ground cover of weed and mulch shields the delicate top soil. “Listen to the land,” reminds Dr Sujata Goel, owner of Rainforest Retreat, who has incorporated her knowledge from years of expertise in ecological sciences to conservation farming and sustainable agriculture, to future planters.
In the second largest coffee producing region of India, Suhas serves himself a cup of classic Coorgi coffee as prepared by traditional households, one of the healthiest among countless cuppa concoctions across the country. The coffee is brewed in a traditional South Indian filter before being sweetened with black jaggery, one of the healthiest forms of sugar in the world.
For journeys where roads unfold at the brim of passion and adventure, a feature-rich compact SUV like the Hyundai TUCSON is the perfect travel buddy to tackle any stumbling blocks along the way. Suhas sips on the deep gold liquid that packs an explosion of flavour with molasses undertone, while overlooking the vast spreads of the fragrant beans, wondering where his profound love for the aromatic beverage will lead him next.
Embraced by the lush verdant mane of the estate, Suhas brews himself a quintessential cup of Coorgi coffee. Photo by: Siddharth Kejriwal